Twist is the number of turns put into a yarn as it is spun. It holds the fibres together and changes how the yarn behaves in a fabric.

Twist level

A low-twist yarn tends to feel softer and fuller but may be weaker and more prone to pilling. A high-twist yarn is usually stronger and firmer, with a crisper or more textured feel.

Twist direction

Yarn can be twisted in an S direction or a Z direction, named after the slope of the letters. Most yarns are Z twist, while S twist is also used, including in some plied yarns.

How it shows in fabric

• Softness and hand feel.
• Strength and resistance to abrasion.
• Surface texture and appearance.
• Tendency to twist or skew after washing.

Balance matters

Unbalanced twist in knitted fabric can cause garments to spiral or twist on the body after washing. Good fabric design and finishing help control this.

Practical tip

When comparing swatches, check softness, surface wear and twisting after a wash, not just the first impression.

Planning a wholesale or private-label order? Read about our wholesale supply, browse the full catalogue or contact us for a quote.