Yarn count describes how fine or thick a yarn is. It is one of the basic numbers used when specifying fabrics.

Two ways of measuring

Some systems give a higher number for a finer yarn, while others give a higher number for a thicker one. That is why the system must always be stated with the number.

Common systems

• English cotton count (Ne): a higher number means a finer yarn.
• Tex: weight in grams per 1,000 metres, so a higher number means a thicker yarn.
• Denier: weight in grams per 9,000 metres, often used for filament yarns.

What it affects

Finer yarns generally produce lighter, smoother fabrics, while thicker yarns make heavier and more textured ones. Fabric density and construction also play a big part.

Reading a specification

A spec such as 30s combed cotton tells you the count and the type of yarn. Ask suppliers to state the system used so comparisons are fair.

Do not judge by count alone

Quality also depends on fibre length, twist and manufacturing. Use count together with GSM and hand feel.

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